Paciano is described by outsiders rushing through it as a sleepy fortified hilltop town, probably because it is Umbria's smallest council with less than a thousand inhabitants spread over its 16 square kilometres. But taking your time, you find it has its share of history, art and good food to boast about, together with all services and shops needed to make it self-sufficient. Its visitors decide to stay here because of its views, peace, tranquillity and location. The town's economy is still based on agriculture, or more specifically, on the production of olive oil.The road signs by the town gate clearly indicate that you have to leave your horses and tractors outside, and continue on foot. Well, cars are allowed, but only at 20 km per hour.

History

The area around Paciano was inhabited by the Etruscans in the 7th century BC, from which the remains of the temple (probably) dedicated to Janus still remain. Theories on the origins of its names are many, the oldest ones being "Pace di Giano" (Peace Of Janus) or "Passus Iani" (Passage to Janus). Other historians believe the name derives from the Roman Pacci family of Cortona, as up to the 17th century, it was called Pacciano.

Paciano is located in Umbria, the Green Heart of Italy. Paciano is ranked by the European Community as one of the top ten villages for the overall positive quality of life. It is a small medieval village on the edge of a provincial nature park, overlooking the south shore of LakeTrasimeno (400 meters above sea level).

Today, Paciano retains its character as a medieval castle, accessible through its three arched gates. Guarding the town are old defence walls and eight towers which in the 17th century were converted to dwellings. Inside the town, three parallel streets connected by picturesque orthogonal alleys hide palaces, old defence structures and churches. The San Carlo Church, with its beautiful 15th century portals, is regularly used for mass. Paciano's oldest church, Chiesa San Giuseppe, has a painting of the town's Patron, the "Madonna of Mercy". In total, seven churches exist both within and outside the town walls. Each containing works of art by local medieval and renaissance artists.

The headquarters of the ancient Confraternity of the Holy Sacrament houses a small art museum that through its exhibits documents the history of Paciano's art, from the Etruscans to the early seventeenth century. The opus of the museum are works by the 13th century painter Francesco Nicolò from Citta della Pieve, believed by many to be Il Perugino's teacher. They include a fresco of the Crucifixion alongside two wood panels depicting saints. These, together with paintings, gold and silver artefacts from the 15th to the 17th centuries, frescos from the 12th, and Etruscan objects from the 4th century BC make a visit to this one room museum worthwhile and amusing. Keys are kept in the house diagonaly across from the museum. Ring on the doorbell to gain access.

Restaurants and Services

Just outside town, a restaurant called Il Casale seems to have taken truffles as its main ingredient. Pina and her daughters will spoil you by grating it directly on your dishes. They grill their meat on the open fire, and serve excellent wines. None of the excess and high quality is reflected in the bill, which is always very fair. L'Oca Bruciata (The burnt duck) will serve pizza and bars will provide you with your mandatory espresso or cappuccino. A wine bar located in the town walls has outdoor tables providing a picturesque setting in the summer months.

A butcher, two grocery stores and flower shop are all located within the town walls. A bakery opened just recently, as did a store selling wine and local products. If you want to get up to date with the local gossips, the are not one, but two hair dressers! A store selling local pottery, an art studio and a store selling their own hand-woven textiles are recent additions, bringing back old traditions to the community. A bank, post office and pharmacy exist as well. At the English Studio you can take Italian (or English !!) lessons, buy English books on the area as well as check your email. The train station serving the Rome - Florence line is only a 20 minute drive, and major supermarkets and shopping centers even less.

Dropping by in the summer, you will find an outdoor theatre, music concerts and occasional feasts. The first week in December is dedicated to the Oil Festival. The festival coincides with the Olive Harvest, which alongside program filled with music, plays and festivities, you can taste the new oil and eat characteristic dishes in the town's restaurants.

Travel

Located 2 hours away by car from Pisa Airport (Ryanair for cheap flight as well as normal carriers) or 2 hours from Rome airport (Ryanair and Easyjet for cheap flights as well as normal carriers). Close to mainline station at Chiusi for trans Europe trains. *Ryanair now flys to Perugia! 24 miles away from here roughly 40 minutes!

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